Europe
-
The Food of Lisbon
I don’t usually do food posts, but I have to make an exception for Lisbon because wow, is Lisbon a great food destination. First you’ve got your pastries. Pastéis de nada – the famous Portugese custard tarts – are available around on street corner. But so are every other kind[…]
-
A Day Trip to Sintra, Portugal
On the weekend, we took a day trip to Sintra: a charming town just outside of Lisbon. Sintra is like the Hamptons of Portugal: it’s a great place for wealthy people to escape Lisbon’s summer heat. In certain historical periods, the royal family lived in Sintra year round. Our tour[…]
-
The Art of Lisbon
From architecture to fashion to food, Lisbon is a city that deeply values aesthetics. Nowhere is that more apparent than its incredible art scene. Whereas an increasing number of major cities around the world have managed to expel their artists through gentrification, Lisbon (at least for now) still has plenty[…]
-
Lisbon’s Castelo de S. Jorge
Last week, James and I arrived at our very last stop on this wild and wonderful journey. Which is Lisbon! I’ve been a bit negligent with the blog this week, in part because Lisbon is the sort of place where you just… be. And I don’t know how to write[…]
-
Hiking the “Royal Path” In Madeira
On Sunday, we embarked on our last hike in Madeira before moving on to Lisbon: the Caminho Real da Encumeada hike, or the royal path (PR12). Historically, this route was one of the only options for cutting through the mountains, and was used by royalty, landlords, and other important people.[…]
-
Hiking Madeira’s Caldeirão Verde Levada Trail
One of the many strange and beautiful things in Madeira are the levadas: channels that were originally created in the 15th century to transport water around the island. There are about 1400km of these levadas, many of which are now maintained as hiking trails. Have I mentioned that Madeira is[…]
-
Hiking Madeira’s Iconic Pico to Pico Hike
Today, we set out for Madeira’s bucket list hike: the Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo hike (Pr1). This route connects the third highest and highest peaks in Madeira, respectively, with sublime views almost the whole way along. These views are just so consistently epic that I don’t even know[…]
-
Chasing Waterfalls in Madeira
We have not been sticking to the rivers or the lakes that we’re used to. We initially set out for the Vereda do Fanal hike, a point to point trail through a forest that is sometimes coated in a spooky fog. On this day, the clouds had dissipated by the[…]
-
Madeira’s Tropical Urban Paradise
Yesterday, we visited the Monte Palace Tropical Garden: an oasis just outside Funchal that features about 17 acres of manicured gardens. I was expecting a relatively brief visit to a beautiful but small garden. But, no: this place is absolutely massive. We spent hours wandering around it. The garden has[…]
-
Hiking the Vereda de Ponta da São Laurenço Trail
São Laurenço Point is a peninsula at the most eastern point of Madeira. The trail that loops around it is one of Madeira’s most popular hikes due to its epic coastal views and primordial-looking landscapes. The ride to São Laurenço from Funchal was about an hour by scooter. We arrived[…]
-
Should You Rent a Scooter in Madeira?
Heck yes you should! We have now reached the semi-tropical island of Madeira, Portugal: a geographically strange and beautiful place that has over 400 marked hiking trails. And, of course, that unmistakable Portuguese charm! Much like Corfu, the island of Madeira is both warm and mountainous, with narrow, hilly, windy[…]
-
One Magical Night in London Town
Our flight from Dubrovnik to Madeira included an 18-hour layover in London, UK. And you know we weren’t about to waste those hours doing something silly, like sleeping. To Victoria Station! By the time we went through customs, dropped off our baggage at the airport hotel, and took the train[…]
-
Two Bosnian Waterfalls, Unalike in Dignity
On Sunday, it was time for us to leave Sarajevo and drive back to Dubrovnik to return our rental car. We once again embarked on a six hour road trip, which took us through mountain after stunning Bosnian mountain. But we figured, since we had all day to get back,[…]
-
Sarajevo’s Abandoned Olympic Luge Track
As you may know, Sarajevo hosted with Winter Olympics in 1984. It was the first time the games were ever held in a communist country, and remains a great source of pride for the city. In preparation for the Games, Sarajevo constructed lots of new sports sites, including an 8.5[…]
-
Remember Sarajevo
The people of Sarajevo have faced some unimaginably dark times in the recent past. During the Bosnian war, Sarajevo was held under siege from 1992-1996: the longest siege in modern European history. Reminders of the siege are everywhere, such as in street art, memorials, and plaques scattered throughout the city.[…]
-
The Road to Sarajevo
This week, we had a little bit of time left at the end of our Balkans tour, so we took a road trip through Bosnia & Herzegovina! Our first stop from Dubrovnik was Mostar: a medieval city best known for its bridges, including one that’s a UNESCO heritage site. This[…]
-
More Croatian Hiking With a Side of Communist History
This weekend was the last of our time in Croatia. We were expecting a lot of rain last week, but that mostly didn’t materialize, so we enjoyed one last Dalmatian coastal hike. This is the Setnica Walking Trail: a relatively short hike in Lapad that began about five minutes from[…]
-
Exploring Lokrum Island, Croatia
There are over 1000 islands and islets in Croatia. During our relatively short visit to the country, we got to visit just one. Lokrum Island! Lokrum Island is a 15 minute ferry ride from Dubrovnik. It’s a car-free island, with well-marked pathing that will take you around its 76 hectares[…]
-
NOT Kayaking in Lapad, Croatia
Boy did we get lucky with the weather this week. After a sunny weekend in Old Town filled with all kinds of outdoorsy goodness, we moved on to Lapad – a residential peninsula outside of Dubrovnik – for a more laidback time. Right on cue, the weather did this: Pros[…]
-
The Sunsets of Dubrovnik
I’ve decided that Dubrovnik requires a whole post just for its sunsets. Because, look at these sunsets. We’ve had two great sunset viewing opportunities during our time in Dubrovnik. The first was from Mount Srd, which is a small mountain/big hill that directly overlooks Old Town. We were originally gonna[…]
-
Walking Along the Dubrovnik City Walls
One of the cool things to do in Dubrovnik Old Town is walking along the top of the fortress walls. The Dubrovnik city walls, constructed in the 13th century, are 2km long and take around 90 minutes to walk around. Or longer, if you stop every few meters to take[…]
-
Kayaking Along the Dubrovnik Old Town Walls
Although kayaking is popular in Dubrovnik, we thought we might have missed the season for it with our late October visit. That is, until we spotted these through a fortress window. Heeeeyyyy! It turns out that this was the very last weekend for kayak rentals before the office closed up[…]
-
A Game of Thrones Tour in Dubrovnik
We spent the weekend in beautiful Dubrovnik Old Town. In addition to being a UNESCO world heritage site and a total tourist magnet, Dubrovnik is also a proper city, complete with museums, art galleries, musical performances, and absolutely incredible food. All of this was a welcome contrast after our last[…]
-
I Should Have Allotted Less Time for Kotor (And More for Podgorica!)
We have spent the last week in Kotor, Montenegro: a destination known for its gorgeous bay and historic Old Town. Indeed, both the bay and the Old Town are simply beautiful. Beyond the hiking and kayaking, we have thoroughly enjoyed wandering through the preserved fortress and admiring the architecture. And,[…]
-
Kayaking Around the Bay of Kotor
Today was a stormy, windy day in the Bay of Kotor. Perfect for cuddling up with a good book a cup of tea. Or, you could go kayaking. We’ve had plenty of sunny days in Kotor when we could have done this activity instead (and probably should have). But that[…]
-
Hiking the St. John Fortress of Kotor
The St John Fortress, or the San Giovanni, is a set of structures from the Byzantine era that sit above Kotor Old Town. Although they are mostly ruins today, what’s special about them is that they sit high above the bay, offering panoramic views of Kotor. The most popular way[…]
-
The Ladder of Kotor Hike to Krstac Pass
We have now reached Kotor: a small, coastal town in Montenegro. The Old Town of Kotor is a UNESCO world heritage site, and a popular stop for cruise ships. Our first couple of days here were very rainy, which gave us an excuse to do not a whole heck of[…]
-
Halloween Season has Finally Reached Montenegro
For the last several weeks, locals have been telling us how lucky we are to have such unseasonably warm, sunny weather. Quietly, I haven’t felt as pleased about it, partly because hiking is comfier in colder weather, and partly because it’s a grim reminder of climate change. But today, we[…]
-
Hiking the Three Peaks Trail (Volušnica, TalIjanka, Popadija)
If there’s one well-known hike in Prokletije National Park, it’s the Volušnica TalIjanka Popadija trail. Referred to by locals as the “three peaks” hike, this trail delivers nonstop breathtaking views along a ridge that includes three mountain summits in a loop. Our favorite hiking bloggers World Wild Hearts said that[…]
-
The “Kissing Cats” Hike in Prokletje
Prokletje National Park is Montenegro’s newest park, very close to the borders of Albania and Kosovo. Its lack of popularity means that if you come here, you basically have the trails to yourself. But, that also makes it hard to find information about available hikes. Based on this limited info,[…]
-
A Montenegro Road Trip and Some Ziplining
On Wednesday, we checked out of our cozy cabin in Zabljak and drove south to Gusinje. When you’re on a Montenegrin road trip (or perhaps any road trip through the Balkans), it’s important to leave plenty of time for animal-related delays. Having snagged some annual Montenegro Parks passes for 13[…]
-
Tara Canyon: The Good, The Bad, and the Creepy
One of the attractions we planned to visit during our time at Durmator National Park is Tara Canyon, which is one of the largest canyons in Europe. On Thanksgiving Monday, we were initially going to try to check another longer mountain hike off our list (Durmitor Ice Cave). But, we[…]
-
Hiking to the Summit of Prutas in Durmitor
By far, the most popular hike in Durmitor National Park is to the peak of Bobotov Kuk: the highest mountain in Montenegro. We hiked up the adjacent mountain instead. At 2393 meters tall, Prutas Peak sits 130m shorter than Bobotov. But, hikers who have done both say that this one[…]
-
Hiking to the Summit of Planinica in Durmitor
Yesterday we set out for Planinica (“Small Mountain”) in Durmitor National Park, Montenegro. The internet promised that this would be a full-day hike with lots of variety. Accurate on both accounts! The hike begins near the park entrance at Black Lake, following the 102 route. Right away, we encountered a[…]
-
First Glimpse of Durmitor National Park
Yesterday, we said goodbye to Albania – our wonderful home for the past month – and made our way north to Žabljak, Montenegro. We’ll be staying in a cabin here for the next week. The main attraction near Žabljak is Durmitor National Park: a UNESCO site full of glacial lakes,[…]
-
Hikes in Theth That Aren’t the Valbona Pass
After completing the majestic Valbona Pass hike, we decided to stay a couple of extra days in Theth before taking the bus back to Shkoder. Theth is a cute village, slightly bigger than Valbona. You still won’t find a grocery store here, or an ATM. But hey, it has the[…]
-
Hiking The Valbona Pass to Theth
Photos of the hike from Valbona to Theth are what made James and I want to visit Albania. This weekend, after travelling around Albania for nearly a month, we finally got to cross this experience off our bucket list. Somehow, it was even more incredible than I imagined. Having arrived[…]
-
The Journey to Valbona, Albania
Albania is home to a bucket list hike: the Valbona Pass through the Accursed Mountains. This 17km hike between Theth and Valbona offers nonstop jaw-dropping mountain vistas. (More in the next post). Theth and Valbona are both small villages with limited services. So, hikers usually drop off their luggage in[…]
-
Cycling Along Shkodra Lake to the Montenegrin Border
On Monday, we took the bus to Shkodër: a charming, midsized city at the foothills of the Albanian Alps. This city is basically a required stop if you want to do any hiking on the Albanian side of the mountain range. The week started off rainy, which was perfect for[…]
-
Swimming Through Albania’s Osumi Canyon
Osumi Canyon is a 26km river gorge in Southern Albania. We visited the canyon as a group tour from Berat. As you know, I prefer independent travel when possible. But, I think Osumi Canyon would be tricky to fit in that way. You would have to rent a car and[…]
-
Hiking to the Berat Castle
This morning, we set out nice and early for Berat Castle, which is the main attraction in Berat. To get to the castle from downtown, you can take a steep but beautiful 30-minute walk up a cobblestone alley. Or, you can take a taxi to the top. Because the castle[…]
-
Berat, Albania: The Next Tourism Hotspot?
We have now made it to Berat: the third city we’ve visited in Albania, and the first non-coastal one. This city’s historic center, known as “the city of 1000 windows”, is a UNESCO world heritage site due to its beautifully preserved Ottoman-style homes. We are staying in Hotel Berati: a[…]
-
Himarë Castle and a Boat Tour
Today, it was time for us to return our trusty rental bike to its home in Himarë. There was a small traffic jam as we waited for a herd of goats to cross. On the way, we stopped in to visit Himarë’s old town: a historic district that includes the[…]
-
Why You Should Add Dhërmi to Your Albanian Itinerary
As we wrap up our time in the Albanian Riviera, I wanted to write a general appreciation post for Dhërmi. When I was researching this trip, I heard a lot about Ksamil, but not as much about the many other villages along the coast. We chose to visit Dhërmi on[…]
-
Kayaking to A Hidden Beach Near Dhermi
Today, we set out for Gjipe: a small beach near Dhermi, Albania that’s surrounded by canyons. To get there, you can drive to a parking lot at the end of the paved road, and then continue on foot for about 30 minutes. Welcome to Gjipe! Crystal clear water and beautiful[…]
-
Hiking the Maja e Qores Summit in Albania
The coastal town of Dhermi, Albania is close to Llogara National Park, which has some impressive mountain hiking. Yesterday, we rode up there and attempted the Maja e Qores hike, which is (ostensibly) a ~10km out and back. We followed Build & Board Travel’s instructions for accessing the trailhead (thank[…]
-
Should You Rent a Motorcycle in Dhermi, Albania?
Actually, you can’t. But you can rent one in Himare! We said goodbye to Ksamil yesterday, and took a taxi up to Dhermi: a village about two hours north along the Albanian Riviera. Dhermi shares some similarities with Ksamil, but it is quite a bit smaller, and, inexplicably, even more[…]
-
Top Five Pool Options in Ksamil, Albania
At its heart, Ksamil is a beachside resort town, designed for sunbathing, swimming, and enjoying the beach vibes. The beaches are all lined with sunbeds, and as of 2023, the going rate for a pair of beds and an umbrella was around 2000 Lek per day (~20 Euros). However, I[…]
-
Ksamil is a Hidden Gem of a Kayaking Destination
Today was another beautiful day in the paradise that is Ksamil, Albania. We packed up early and headed to the beach for a quick breakfast before some paddling. I wasn’t sure what the kayaking would be like here, because we couldn’t find any real sea kayaks for hire. However, we[…]
-
Welcome to Albania!
The whole time James and I were planning this trip, we would tell everyone that we were going to Albania. And people would look confused and say, “Why?” But I don’t think folks were actually picturing Albania when they asked us that. Because this is Albania. The journey from Corfu,[…]
-
Exploring The Old Fortress of Corfu Town
We have now made it to Corfu Town: the largest and most beautiful city on the island of Corfu. One of the more interesting things to do in Corfu Town is to visit one of the two fortresses that stand between the town and the sea. We visited the Old[…]
-
Saying Goodbye to Palaiokastritsa
The village of Palaiokastritsa has been my favorite place we’ve visited so far on this trip, and it was hard to say goodbye. But, we have lots more exploring to do! So yesterday, we took a last rainy ride around on our rented scooter before heading to Corfu Town. Due[…]
-
Scuba Diving in Corfu, Greece
For our last big Palaiokastritsa excursion, we set out for the Achilleon Diving centre. After showing our dive cards and filling out some waivers, we were quickly suited up and whisked away on a little boat. The dive site we went to, which was about 20 minutes from the centre,[…]
-
Petting the Donkeys of Corfu
Not far from where we’re staying in Corfu, there’s a sanctuary for donkeys who are too old or injured to work. Of course we had to go and meet the donkeys. A short scooter ride took us uphill and down a windy gravel road. No signs indicated whether we were[…]
-
Should You Rent a Boat in Corfu?
Heck yes you should! Most touristy places have their “thing” that you do while you’re there. Maybe it’s a horse and carriage ride, or getting a massage. Here in corfu, it’s renting a boat. The streets are lined with boat rental places, enticing you to get your own speedboat for[…]
-
Should You Rent a Scooter in Corfu?
Heck yes you should! One of the first things we noticed about Corfu is that it’s not one of those pedestrian-friendly European towns. This mountainous island is pretty rural, with exceedingly narrow, windy roads. Unless you’re staying right in Corfu Town and/or are not that interested in exploring the island,[…]
-
Good News: Corfu is (Sort of) Kayakable!
Yesterday we flew into sunny Corfu, Greece, which is the real launch point for our semester-long trip through the Balkans. Upon arrival, we were very much not disappointed by the weather or the scenery. We are staying in a hotel near Paleokastritsa: the part of the island most known for[…]
-
Kayaking the Canals of Ghent
Another point against the town of Bruges is that there is no kayaking permitted in its canals. And have you really visited a country if you haven’t kayaked there? I personally don’t think so. Obviously, we had to find a Belgian canal in which we could kayak. So we took[…]
-
All the Damme Cycling
On our second day in Bruges, we rented a couple of bicycles and explored the countryside. 10/10 side quest, definitely recommend. From Bruges, there are dedicated bike lanes that take you along the rivers to neighboring towns. I’ve never cycled somewhere with such flat roads and excellent cycling infrastructure and[…]
-
In Bruges
New country, new post! After briefly stopping into Tilburg for a conference, we said goodbye to the Netherlands and made our way to Bruges, Belgium: a romantic, medieval town that is known for being highly instagrammable. Years ago, James introduced me to the movie “In Bruges”, which is about two[…]
-
Amsterdaaammn
I’d be remiss if I didn’t include a general “Amsterdam is awesome” appreciation post. This city rules. So, as we close in on our last day here, here are some of the random delights that deserve an honorable mention. This grand piano, which apparently gets brought out into one of[…]
-
Windmills and Cheese (Mostly Cheese)
After our pretty intense day of kayaking around the canals, we decided to opt for a more lowkey activity. So, we signed up for a countryside windmill tour. This tour, which you can book at any of the tourist kiosks around Amsterdam, picks you up by bus and takes to[…]
-
Kayaking the Amsterdam Canals
Amsterdam has 165 canals, totaling 75km of kayakable waterways. Naturally, this is why we came to Amsterdam. Is the city even known for anything else? James and I arrived here on Saturday morning. After checking into our “cube hotel” — which is like an extra comfy hostel — our priorities[…]
-
Hiking at Plitvice Lakes
Plitvice (pronounced PLEETveetsah) is Croatia’s oldest national park, and a UNESCO world heritage site. Although it was a bit out of the way from the rest of my trip, I couldn’t come all the way to this part of the world and not see it. There are tour buses that will take[…]
-
Kayaking Rovinj
Rovinj is a beautiful Croatian town on the Adriatic Sea. In the summer, Rovinj is very much a tourist destination, especially the old quarter with its signature cobblestone walkways. Late September is an ideal time to visit in my opinion. Perfect weather and a fraction of the crowds. If you[…]
-
Kayaking Lake Bohinj
Lake Bohinj is a sleepy mountain town in Slovenia, about 2 hours from Ljubljana by bus. The town is much smaller and less touristy than Lake Bled, with generally less infrastructure, especially in the off-season. You can think of it as Lake Bled’s lesser known cousin. One key difference/advantage though[…]