Berat, Albania: The Next Tourism Hotspot?

We have now made it to Berat: the third city we’ve visited in Albania, and the first non-coastal one. This city’s historic center, known as “the city of 1000 windows”, is a UNESCO world heritage site due to its beautifully preserved Ottoman-style homes.

We are staying in Hotel Berati: a 300-year-old building that is decorated in a traditional Ottoman-era style.

One of the most immediate differences we found between Berat and the Albanian Riviera (aside from the much lower prices) is that Berat has waaayyyy better food.

Although Ksamil and Dhërmi were stunning destinations, the food was nothing to write home about (which is why I didn’t). Every restaurant seemed to have an identical menu, with lots of bland, underseasoned options. We were starting to think that maybe that’s just what Albanian food is like. But, our new hypothesis is that the restaurants in those seaside destinations are trying to cater to what (they think) tourists like.

Berat, in contrast, is brimming with traditional Albanian cuisine that is absolutely incredible. If you visit, you have to try the byrek, moussaka, and tavë kosi (lamb baked with rice and yogurt).

Given the beauty of Berat, you might expect it to be a touristy place. But, because Albania is such a young democracy, this country doesn’t yet suffer from the overtourism that you find in a lot of the rest of Europe. Berat in particular still has that authentic feel that you get from being in a place with more locals than tourists.

That appears to be rapidly changing though. Residents we’ve chatted with have told us about how the Albanian government is investing heavily in new tourism infrastructure, such as new roads, tunnels, and even a new airport in Vlorë. Here in Berat, many people are converting their houses into hotels and restaurants. This past summer was the city’s busiest tourism season yet.

It will be very interesting to see how much things change here in the next 5-10 years, for both better and worse.