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Wrapping Up Our Magical Kumano Kodo Trail Experience (Days 5 and 6)
The final hiking day was the one with the biggest payoff: the iconic Nachi Taicha Grand Shrine and Nachi Falls. To get there though, you have to complete the most strenuous part of the trek, with 1200 meters of ascension in total. Whereas James bravely opted to keep his pack for the duration of the…
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Day 4 of the Kumano Kodo: Cherry Blossoms Everywhere!
Saying goodbye to Yonomine Onsen wasn’t as difficult as leaving some of the other villages along this journey. Not only did the sulfur from the natural hot springs make the whole town smell like eggs, but the inn we stayed at was run by a strange, pushy woman who kept messing with my food. Sayanara!…
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Day 3 of the Kumano Kodo: Completion of the Main Route
We awoke on the third day of our trek at Guesthouse Mui. In addition to offering incredible food – which seems to come standard with any accommodation on any hiking trail in Japan – this guesthouse was notable for being the home of two pet goats. The goats were trained to shake a hoof for…
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Days 1 and 2 of the Kumano Kodo Trail
Last week, we embarked on our six-day trek through the Kumano Kodo: a UNESCO-recognized network of pilgrimage trails that have been important spiritual routes for over a thousand years. The itinerary we followed (described here) was the classic Nakahechi trek that starts in Takijiri and ends at Nachi Falls. I had shipped my laptop to…
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Pretending It’s Not Crowded in Kyoto, Japan
Kyoto, formerly Japan’s capital city, is known for being the cultural heart of Japan. Whereas Tokyo is the epitome of modern Japanese life, Kyoto represents the country’s history and tradition. It’s also an extremely popular tourist destination, especially during cherry blossom season. There’s a funny impulse among tourists, while photographing all the beautiful shrines and…
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Day 3 of the Nakasendo Trail: Tsumago to Magome
On our third and final Nakasendo hiking day, we covered the 8km from Tsumago to Magome. This is the most well-advertised section of the trail, covering the distance between these two historic, well-preserved villages. No need for trains, as you can hike directly from one village to the other, staying at a traditional ryokan in…