Day 4 of the Kumano Kodo: Cherry Blossoms Everywhere!

Saying goodbye to Yonomine Onsen wasn’t as difficult as leaving some of the other villages along this journey. Not only did the sulfur from the natural hot springs make the whole town smell like eggs, but the inn we stayed at was run by a strange, pushy woman who kept messing with my food. Sayanara! We set out nice and early and began our 13km hike to Koguchi.

As with the other hiking days, Day 4 had no shortage of beautiful forests full of old cedar trees.

This part of the hike also offered a viewpoint – rare on this trail – that gives you a clear view of the mountains and valleys beyond the tree line.

But the prettiest part of today’s hike was arguably not even on the trail. After we reached the town of Koguchi, we had another 30 minute walk or so to our next guesthouse. This walk took us along a river that is mostly lined with cherry trees, which are now at peak bloom in this part of Japan.

In Kyoto or Osaka, these trees would be surrounded like A-list celebrities. But in the sleepy little village of Koguchi, we got to enjoy them all to ourselves.

What a warm welcome we received at the KUMAANO Farm & Guesthouse!

This guesthouse – which turned out to be a cozy, rustic cabin overlooking the river and mountains – was one of our very favorite stays (tying for first with Miko’s guesthouse). The owners were super warm, lovely individuals, who prepared incredible meals for us – even by Japanese standards – with fresh ingredients from their farm.

In the morning, we were sent off on our final hike with a purification and blessing from their conch horn, which was so touching and special. Hospitality that we will never forget!