A Perfect Spring Day in Matsumoto, Japan

We spent only one full day in Matsumoto, on route to our Nakasendo Trail hike. Luckily, it was a beautiful early spring day, and the perfect amount of time to explore this pretty historical town.

We started the day off with a visit to Matsumoto Castle: a 430 year old castle from the Sengoku period. Matsumoto Castle has been recognized as a National Treasure for being the oldest intact castle in Japan.

We went inside the castle and learned about its historical significance, particularly for the shogunate during the Edo period (1603 – 1867). HBO has a new show about the shogun which we’re particularly excited to watch now.

After visiting the castle, we explored the shops along “Frog Street”, and enjoyed an incredible okonomiyaki lunch that was prepared in front of us.

In the afternoon, we headed for the Matsumoto City Museum of Art. This museum is best known for exhibiting the work of Yayoi Kusama: a contemporary artist from Matsumoto who is famous for her dot motifs. Photography was not allowed in most of the (incredible) exhibit featuring her work. Honestly, that policy really enhanced my experience: instead of trying to document the art, I was free to just enjoy it, as were all the other patrons.

In addition to the permanent Kusama exhibit, the museum was also featuring a special exhibit on Yasuka Sudou (“Memories of Light and Darkness”). This artist – who we had not heard of – had an incredibly sad life story that made for a moving, existential exhibit.

Sudou had been quite sick for most of her life, before succumbing to her illness at only 30 years old. Fear of death, and a sense of urgency to produce art that would give her short life meaning, were themes that came through strongly in her prolific work.

This emphasis on the impermanence of life and making the most of each moment is something that I really appreciate so far about Japanese culture. Indeed, that’s the very idea behind the celebration of the cherry blossoms. It’s a wonderful philosophy to embrace any time, but particularly when on a trip like this. In the words of the shaman I met in Mexico, “aquí y ahora, siempre”.